
Lezhë
Mrizi i Zanave
The slow-food farm that put Albanian cuisine on the map. Long lunches, pastures out the window, raki at the end.

In the Gorica quarter just across the bridge, family-run on recipes nobody wrote down. Tavë kosi and fërgesë done properly, with house wine by the jug. Opens at one on Sundays, eleven the rest of the week.
Photos from Berat
Traditional€€Berat
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Lezhë
The slow-food farm that put Albanian cuisine on the map. Long lunches, pastures out the window, raki at the end.

Berat
Old-town tavern in a stone basement — qofte, tave kosi, local Berat wine on tap.

Tirana
Tirana institution — the place locals send first-time visitors. Big menu, friendly prices, late hours.