
Traditional
Berat
Onufri
Old-town tavern in a stone basement — qofte, tave kosi, local Berat wine on tap.

The slow-food farm that put Albanian cuisine on the map. Long lunches, pastures out the window, raki at the end.
Photos from Lezhë
Traditional€€Lezhë

Berat
Old-town tavern in a stone basement — qofte, tave kosi, local Berat wine on tap.

Tirana
Tirana institution — the place locals send first-time visitors. Big menu, friendly prices, late hours.

Sarandë
Six tables, run by three people, and a meal that opens with a platter of fourteen small plates before you have decided anything. The raki and the wine come off the family's own farm. Not the place for a quick lunch — it is built for sitting still for three hours.